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Now that you are in Dhaka, the thriving
capital of Bangladesh, you must be raring to go out and see the sights.
If you haven't you might want to read up on the history of Dhaka,
before coming back here to start the tour.

The best place to begin would be the
Lalbagh Fort, at the edge of Old Dhaka (see a scene of old
Dhaka). This fort overlooking the Burigonga River is an imposing yet
incomplete Moghul fort. Begun in 1678 by Prince Azam, the third son of
the last great Moghul Emperor Aurangazeb, the construction was taken up
by his son Nawab Shaista Khan. Legend has it that, the death of his
favorite daughter, locally known as Bibi Pari, caused a total
suspension of the construction. The fort consists of long fortified
walls with octagonal bastions. Within the walls there is a mosque and
the Mausoleum of Bibi Pari, and the Audience Hall. There is an on-site
museum that will enthrall the visitors.
Now that you are in the locality, you must
visit the old city. Walk along the Waterworks Road until you reach the
hub of the old city - Chowk Bazaar. You will be walking
through a maze of tightly twisting roads, and you will be living and
breathing 19th century Dhaka. The roads are narrow, and lined with tall
precariously poised old buildings, the ground floors of which house
shops, both wholesale and retail, selling everything that one can
imagine. The streets are seething with pedestrians, innumerable
rickshaws, pushcarts and even on occasions, a hackney cart. You may
have the equal misfortune of almost being run over by a bullock cart or
a late model Mercedes Benz.
At Chowk Bazaar, you will get to see the
remains of the Bara Katra, a 1644 edifice built by Mir Abul Qasem.
Little survives of this place, but it was originally built and
conceived on the traditional caravansary model embellished with Moghul
features. Close to it is the Chhota Katra, built in 1663 by Shaista
Khan.

Further south, you can get to see the
newly refurbished Ahsan Manzil, or the Nawab's place as
it is often called. This was built in 1872 close to Wise Ghat, and was
named after Nawab Ahsanullah Bahadur. Partially destroyed by a tornado
in 1888, the building was abandoned and housed homeless people for many
years until recently refurbished.
Another interesting sight to visit in the
old Dhaka, is the Armenian Church, in Armanitola,
built in 1791 by the Armenian colony on Holy Church Road. The Baldah
Gardens is another must see, in Wari. This is a botanical garden built
under the patronage of the Maharajah of Baldah, and amongst other fine
specimens, houses one of the few examples of the Amazon Lily in this
part of the world.

Along Islampur Road, you will find the
Tara Masjid, the Star Mosque. This is one of the
striking mosques in a city which is often called the city of mosques.
The name derives from a glittering mosaic of broken china. Originally
built in the 18th century, the mosaic was a later addition by a zealous
and pious businessman. While we are on the topic of Mosques, let us not
forget a Mughal mosque built in the provincial Moghul style in the 17th
century by Shaista Khan. The Shaat Gombuj - Seven Domed - mosque can be
found in the northwestern corner of the city, in Jafarabad. The mosque
stands on high bank overlooking the Burigonga. It has three domes over
the prayer hall, and four corner domes over octagonal towers.

Let us now move towards the somewhat newer
parts of the city, to buildings and sights from the British Raj era.
Curzon Hall in Ramna is a happy blend of European and Moghul
architecture. These homogeneous looking buildings were built around
1905, after the partition of Bengal. They have a Victorian edifice with Mughal trimmings of cusped arches and kiosk-like turrets. This was
originally built to be the town hall by Lord Curzon, the then Governor
General of British India, but has now been taken over by the Dhaka
University and is part of the Faculty of Sciences. Almost opposite is
the Old High Court building; also built in 1905 in the prevalent
neoclassical European way, it was originally conceived as the
Governor's residence. The largest Hidu Temple of the country
Dhakeswari Mandir is situated at Polashi which is also worth
watching.
Let us wend our way to Dhaka's downtown,
fast resembling metropolises anywhere with high rise buildings vying
for supremacy in the commercial area of Motijheel. Right in the heart
of this busy area is the National Stadium, officially seating 60,000,
unofficially over a hundred thousand. Right next door is the
Baitul Muqarram National Mosque built in a stylistic rendition
of the Holy Kaabah in Mecca. The Kamlapur Railway Station is another
must see, with its "gothic" like architecture.
Recently a new National Museum
has opened up in Shahbag, and has a rich collection from Bangladesh's
history. Close by is the Shahid Minar, the Martyrs Memorial,
commemorating the deaths of 4 people in February 21, 1952 at the hands
of police protesting against Urdu as the sole national language of
Pakistan. The series of protests, called the Bhasha Andolon - language
movement, initially calling for Bangla to be one of the national
languages, gave rise to a nascent Bengali nationalism which eventually
reached fruition of independent Bangladesh, after a 9 month long
Independence War in 1971. The Shahid Minar is a stylistic
representation of a mother and her children, representing Bangla the
mother and Bengalis, her children.

Another striking set of buildings in Dhaka
are the Jatiyo Shongshod - National Parliament - complex
at Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, A colossal complex of geometrical proportion,
it was conceived by the famous American architect Louis Kahn.

No trip to the city is complete without
visiting the various monuments and mausoleums dotting the city. You
have already seen the Shahid Minar, and further north of
the city at Savar is the National Monument, commemorating the victory
over the Pakistan Army, the Tin Netar Mazaar, the mausoleum of three
leaders, the Shahid Buddhijibi Smriti Shousdho - the martyred
intellectuals memorial, and the Mausoleum of deceased president Ziaur
Rahman.
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